#WATER HOSE CONNECTOR REPAIR INSTALL#
#WATER HOSE CONNECTOR REPAIR CRACK#

Now imagine if the molding was poor quality and the collar/finger/both ended up sloped instead of a good sharp 90 degrees. The rubber ring(black in my sketch) seals the water (blue) in You can see this in action if you look at the movement of the white fingers while you move the locking sleeve between open and closed. When you pull on the sleeve, the bit of plastic that pushes the fingers inwards moves down, and away and another part springs the fingers open so they no longer grip the collar. They hook onto the collar of the tap end (light grey) and stay in place because that outer sleeve stops them from springing outwards - in effect the sleeve holds them inwards. The yellow arrow things in my sketch are those white plastic fingers.

When in service it stays in place by those white fingers (3 of probably) inside the hose end gripping onto the ring above the rubber seal of the tap end.

It should spring to the closed position or if it's one of the few types that are either open or closed, it shouldn't be 'loose' You describe the sleeve as 'loose' - it shouldn't be. They aren't jammed in the open position when not connected to anything. Take a look at a google image search of any of these kind of connectors, from any brand : The fact that the release sleeve appears to be stuck in the 'open' position in the first picture gives me little faith that whatever springing mechanism keeps it in the 'locked' position actually works well in service.

#WATER HOSE CONNECTOR REPAIR CRACK#

In your example, the bib adapter looks so flimsy it's bound to crack and fall off the spout within a week if you ever get it to actually hold. A reasonable all-plastic one, a 'metal where it counts' one, and an all-metal one. Here, for comparison, are fittings that are increasingly better quality than yours.

Alternatively, it may be a total piece of junk where you are in fact locking it but the cheap plastic parts are incapable of holding under normal water pressure. If the thing is amenable to having you THINK it's on, but it isn't locked, then it is definitively junk, failing to provide the one thing that distinguishes it from an ordinary screw-on hose. But the entire point of click-lock fittings is to be easy and foolproof. You are probably not pushing hard enough. I could blame pilot error: you are supposed to push it on until it clicks at which point it's locked on. Cut the hose and take the connector and a small piece of the hose with you so that you can buy a kit designed for use with the proper hose size.A hasty assessment: it is probably because it's a piece of junk. These kits use couplings to connect the two pieces of the leader hose after you cut it with a knife. You can also purchase hose repair tape for fixing small leaks as well-but for temporary fixes, electrical tape works just as well. Simply wrap that electrical tape tightly around the damaged area and use the hose reel until you can buy a water hose repair kit. You can temporarily repair small cuts or punctures in leader hoses from your hose reel with ordinary electrical tape. Repairing Damaged Hose Reel Leader Hoses Step 1 - Make a Temporary Repair Avoid water hose connectors that are installed by simply tightening down two screws as these types of connectors will usually leak badly after a short period of time. In some cases, you may need to buy a quick connect coupler to replace the faulty hose reel connector.

#WATER HOSE CONNECTOR REPAIR INSTALL#

Slice the hose immediately below the old connector and install the new water hose connector according to the manufacturer's instructions. Purchase a 'male' or 'female' (depending on the type you need) water hose connector that matches the size of the connector on your hose reel. If replacing the O-ring in the hose reel connector does not stop the leak, the connector itself may be damaged beyond repair and need to be replaced.

Water hose connector repair